31km (208.4km)
Saturday 2nd April

My trusty (?), soon to binned,  guidebook, suggested leaving Logroño and finding breakfast en route – 12km later I arrived at Naverette with the first, and only, place to eat in the town. An omelette seemed like a good idea, the omelette sandwich which I’d apparently ordered didn’t, still it was well needed fuel. Naverette is famous for its pottery and I did see some lovely 8ft pots but couldn’t see a viable way of sending them to Edinburgh so I had to make do with just watching some clay being thrown around, I did take a note of one of the potter just in case though…I visited the church of la Asuncíon next to the omelette sandwich café, it’s about 400/500 years old and was  well worth taking the time have a look round. They play music (mostly chanting monks) in most of them and it’s extremely peaceful and soothing, really it is. The walk, once again, ran through vineyards and along quiet roads although today, for the first time, we spent some time very close to motorways, so not very peaceful. The last couple of hours were rather monotonous, the path carved up by a working, unattractive quarry at one part. I did pass an unusual stone hut here though (chozo) which was traditionally used for storing agricultural implements (the useful things one learns). The walk into Nájera was not very pretty (no photos!) but as with yesterday, in Logroño, the old part of the town suddenly emerged with some lively cafés and restaurants around the bridge over the river Najerilla. Many of the walkers finished yesterday (a one week Camino section) so today was very quiet. It is strange how you miss faces of people that you don’t even know. I spent hours completely alone and although before the walk I found this an unsettling prospect it was absolutely fine;  just out of sight ahead, or behind, is another walker, even if there isn’t there is a feeling that there are others nearby.

I couldn’t put it off any longer and had to do some washing (which will no doubt rot in my bag over the next few days as I attempt to dry it). I have my ‘All purpose soap – for skin, hair, food and clothes’ – well the clothes look (and smell) as bad as they did before and as for my hair, it looks like a bird’s nest…more like ‘No purpose soap’ if you ask me. Having an early night and short day tomorrow, at 20km it’s almost a rest day.

I forgot to mention that it was a perfect day today, cloudless blue sky 😊