35km (729.7km)
Thursday 21st April

I managed to overcome my fear of the dark this morning and set out, without retracing my steps, at 7 am, a peaceful start to the day. I didn’t see anyone until I stopped at Portomarin, about 10km from the start, when all at once the Camino completely changed in atmosphere. If you want to do the Camino, or part of it do not just do this bit as it is not a true reflection of the whole ‘experience’. The rest of the day I spent talking to groups who had arrived to do the last 100 days. For the last few days I have been lucky if I’ve seen a handful of people all day, today the path was almost busy. So now it’s much more like being on holiday somewhere; when going out for dinner, you’re not likely to just sit down beside other holiday makers – or if you do they will at least think you a bit strange but more likely accuse your of harassment and have you ousted from the establishment – needless to say I ate alone this evening ! This is all fine of course as I’m on a day 27 and I only have tomorrow before Dan joins me for the last few days. I’m also in contact with some of the pilgrims I met earlier on who will catch me up tomorrow, which should be interesting… Strange though it may seem, I am not looking forward to being finished, it has been an incredible experience and I cannot quite believe that it is day 27, the time has just flown by and I can’t quite believe that it’s nearly over.
The experience is obviously personal but also it’s about the people you meet along the road. There are many heart breaking tales but there are also amazing ones; one lady I met, early on (Inga?) carried her husband’s ashes from St. Jean Pied de Port to Finisterre 2 years ago when she was 73, another couple I met were carrying their son’s ashes, then there was a couple who met on The Camino in 1975, and were married immediately on their return, much to their family’s disapproval – they were back to walk it again, 41 years of marriage later (and they were holding hands when I saw them). So many stories…