Monday 9th April 2018

33km (297.4 km)

The Albergue last night was perfect but it seemed to attract a strange group of pilgrims, none of whom talked to each other. I had an early night and was up and out as soon as it was light; some of the pilgrims were still in bed snoring. The rain started within the first five minutes of the walk and did not let up all day. I tried to take some photos but at the peak of the torrential rain I just put my head down and willed myself to Canaveral, the first coffee stop of the day. There was apparently a pharmacy there too but everything except a little coffee bar (with a few sodden pilgrims in it) was shut….at 10:30 on a Monday morning. I continued on to Grimaldo, my poncho catching the wind and my legs and boots literally squelching as I walked. I arrived around 13:30 and tried to get into the Casa Rural but seeing the mound of wheely bags and suspiciously dry pilgrims picking thru them I knew there wouldn’t by any space. I was directed next door to a dinghy bar where the patron took me next door again to the Albergue; donativo…and even that was too much for the unpleasant, dirty dorm that I was shown. I sat on the bed and did get as far as taking out my bed bug sheet and sleeping bag before deciding that having walked 20k in the rain I could walk another 14 in order to be able to dry out for tomorrow which promises go be equally wet. I decided to go 2k off route to Riobosolo, booked a Casa Rural, put my wet gear back on and left the miserable place. I arrived around 4pm, the patrons (Lorenzo and Marta) informed me that the town was having a party so all the shops and restaurants would be shut today but that I could eat at a bar if I went immediately (at 4 and still in my walking boots). So that’s what happened I was taken to a very dark little bar, full of old men smoking and playing cards, had a pork loin sandwich and then walked back to the Casa Rural where I am completely alone. I’ve been given keys to lock up on the morning. All very strange but at least I should start the day with dry boots ( for at least 5 minutes)