Thursday 19th April 2018

25.3 km (510.4 km)

Yesterday I met the youngest peregrino; a wee boy of about 18 months who is doing the Sanabrias Camino, which starts from Granja De Moreruela (the Via De la Plata joined it today). Mother, father and two grandmothers…quite impressive, even if the grandmothers do look younger than me.

Today I diverted from the Via De la Plata route that goes to Astorga, as I’d been there on the Camino Frances two years ago, and instead joined the Sanabrias Camino which promises to be more scenic with even some hills next week. After the usual red road which is visible for miles we came came to a more undulating path surrounded by dense forests which made for a welcome change. Shortly after the route crossed the Esla River by the Quintos Bridge; great photo opportunities and probably the best day yet in terms of terrain and views. After the bridge I took the old Camino route and just for a while it felt like a normal day’s walk with no red road in sight.

All in all it was quite an easy day and I walked most of the day with Marianne and a Frenchman, Gerard, who spoke Spanish the whole time, I thought it would be good for me – a sort of immersion day. Near the end of the walk we came across three terrifying dogs who were guarding the sheep; these are not to be confused with sheep dogs at home. These dogs stand about the size of a small calf and are trained to stop the sheep being stolen. They were rounding on us, teeth baring and not a wagging tail between them. I was ready to bolt for it but Gerard and Marianne just shouted back at the barking dogs and waved their sticks and all was well. If they hadn’t been there I’d now be back at some other Albergue and probably getting another bus or taxi to avoid the beasts.

We arrived at Tabara and are staying in a new Albergue, €15 dinner (including wine!), bed and breakfast. There are flood free showers and sockets galore to plug in all my electronics and there’s even a bank in the town which is not common on this route…funny what makes one happy sometimes!