Sunday 22nd April 2018

33 km (603.1 km)

The hotel was definitely the place to be last night and the owner has ensured that it’s a fairly pleasant respite in an otherwise run down town. Breakfast was coffee and a huge pain au chocolat and Dan was a bit surprised, and disappointed, that I managed to eat it all! The route is starting to be a bit more undulating now with forests of ancient trees lining the trail which is good for a change. We passed through one ghost village after another with no sign of a bar or a cafe con leche or indeed of any life whatsoever and didn’t actually stop until we’d walked 18km where we had omelettes and coffee. With only 15km left Marian seemed keen to just keep going until we reached our destination and against my better judgement I went along with this…the downside being that my feet are now on fire and Dan is hobbling around and Marian, aged 67 is absolutely fine (good genes I think and I’m sure her grandchildren think she’s a bit of ninja grandmother…they call her Forest Gump!). The villages are ancient in this part of Spain and are mostly populated by a few old people who rely on mobile shops to supply them with the necessesities. There are about 20-30 people in each village and no one seems to be awake whenever we pass through, when walking alone this was a bit disconcerting but with company it is fine, just very odd.

We are now in the Albergue, the three of us in one room and the other room soon to be accommodating three peregrinos who are doing the route on horseback. Marian was keen not to be in the same room as them as she assured us that the room would indeed smell like stables. I think doing this on horseback is just a little bit easier…

Puebla De Sanabria has a beautiful mediaeval old town with a magnificent castle. After our 33km stomp in 7 hours I wasn’t sure that I wanted to take one more step unless is was in the direction of a bar or restaurant but it was worth the hike up a long flight of steps so see yet another previously unknown (to me) gem of Spain;the old town and the castle built around the 15th century by the Count of Benavente. Marian had a recommendation from a friend for dinner so we had a delicious meal of pulpos and more red wine.