Day 5: Cowling to Kirkby Malham

Pennine Way

28.82km (129.92 km) – Friday 8th July

This morning we set out with some trepidation, given Joanne’s ongoing knee problems, we are monitoring them though and will be sensible (!). Full waterproofs, gaiters, hoods up and skies falling in we bid farewell to our great hosts Susan and Sandy who stood in their dry kitchen quoting ‘There’s no such thing as bad weather, only unsuitable clothing’ – really? I don’t think we could have had more suitable clothing but we were suitably soaked a few hours later. Within about half an hour from the start my feet were squelching and I was left wondering why I hadn’t thrown my trusty boots away after my similar experiences on the Camino. Compared to yesterday we were bounding along with a spring in our step, even with the atrocious weather; more food and regular breaks definitely saved us from another arduous day. We went through a very pretty village, Lothersdale, which has a reputation for being a ‘sweet and friendly’ village, we did pass a friendly lady with a wee dog so we agree with the description :). Nearby there is also the mansion of Stone Gappe which was apparently the influence for Gateshead Hall in Jane Eyre. Later on in the day we walked past some canals; Leeds and Liverpool canal (largest canal system in the uk) – all very picturesque. We stopped for late for lunch at Gargrave and after we started put afternoon walk in the sun. It was a lovely afternoon, we entered the Yorkshire Dales National Park with the scenery becoming more rugged. Joanne soon became aware f some of my phobias when we had to pass through a cow filled field…I ended up pinned to the perimeter of the field (wall then barbed wire fence) adding some bonus miles to our day :(. Joanne was very patient and encouraging, all the while shooing away the terrifying cows. We arrived at Kirkby Malham with no further dramas and are staying at The Victoria Inn – great location and great pub. Best fish and chips for dinner now off for our usual early bed, fingers crossed that Joanne’s knee is better in the morning.

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