Monday 11th April

20 km (306 km)

Morning in the Monastery

We had a short day today so had the luxury of a lazy/late start. This meant we had breakfast with a few other ‘pilgrims’ from Italy, France and two ladies from Estonia (travelling independently). This is what makes these walks interesting, crossing paths with people you would never otherwise meet. I had a quick look around the monastery and then we were off.

Medieval bridges and beyond

The route wound its way through more walled, cobbled streets before entering a beautiful forest of oaks and eucalyptus. We exited the forest to cross a spectacular bridge. I took many photos but fear I didn’t do its 1000-year-old history justice (Ponte D Zameiro 11th-12th century).

Diversions and revisions

Luckily over the past few years, the route has been revisited and there are now quite a few diversions off the busier roads through quieter villages (although they all have their angry dogs which I still find quite stressful, even with my newfound dog whispering skills). We passed a few likely Camino candidates and spoke to those that wanted to chat, using a variety of English, French, Duolingo Spanish and two-week-old Portuguese. One lovely lady from California suggested we swap details so that I could go and stay with her…you have to remember I basically said ‘bom caminho’ and ‘where are you from’ and nothing more before my invite, I declined and said ‘Thank you but I don’t intend to ever leave Europe again’…

We passed through São Pedro de Rates which, apparently has historical significance – this was, sadly, lost on us as we sought out our next cup of coffee, pastel de Nata and the nearest Farmacia!

I’d booked us into a guesthouse in Pedra Furada. We arrived around 2 and around 3 I thought I should go and check out when we could eat – life becomes so simple at times: food and blister medication is all one needs. The restaurant was closing as I approached ‘oh no Monday we shut at 3’ the owner informed me. To be honest the sad face and ‘what am I to do’ look doesn’t really work now that I’m approaching 56 but as luck would have it he reopened the kitchen and cooked us some food. I don’t see this happening in Edinburgh! The owner was lovely and is actually shutting the accommodation side of his business to house a few Ukrainian families… an incredibly generous gesture I couldn’t help saying – he replied by pointing at the news on the TV saying there is no option to look away we must help.

Looking forward to tomorrow as it’s a quick 11 km and then a wee sight seeing tour around Barcelos, hopefully.