Saturday 2nd April

31.5km (157.4 km)

Today was our third 30+ km day so we set off early with a spring in our step, willing the blisters to keep at bay. There was a lot of indecision on my part in departing Goléga as there was an old route and a new one. The new one went along the main road so I opted for the old route. This was all fine until I started stressing regarding farm dogs and imagining that the route had been changed because of their ferocity on the more rural route! Luckily we made it through this 5k stage, once again unbitten – actually without seeing a single canine! We joined the new route at the Terra de Templarios monument which commemorates the surrounding land that was donated to the religious Order of the Knights Templars by King Alfonso Henriques in 1169. My knowledge of the Knight Templars is pretty sketchy at best; The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown is my only frame of reference I have to admit. Shortly after we came to the quaint Quinta da Cardiga which was originally a castle built by the Knights Templar. It was a strangely atmospheric place; a mix of decay and faded grandeur…I was quite taken with it although my photos do not do it justice at all!

Eucalyptus Forests

We continued on our way expecting a coffee stop at 10km but it was closed, covid has affected everywhere it would seem. I can’t explain the feeling of missing a coffee stop on these walks but it’s rather disheartening. Shortly after our no coffee disappointment we turned onto a forest road and veered uphill into a eucalyptus forest. The route was undulating to add some variety and just lovely to walk through. We arrived in the village of Asseiceira nearly 20k into our walk at which point Robyn decided a taxi was in order so off she went and I continued on for the remaining 11.2 km

You have got to be joking

I should have taken the taxi! The fabulous route with big skies, forests and white-washed cottages transformed into walking along dual carriageways, around junctions and having to cross over motorway exit lanes. I kept checking the route as I really could not believe the route, consequentially there was much ranting and outbursts of exasperation (and fear)…no doubt the passing motorists just thought I was a mad pilgrim. For me, this is second in the fear factor line after wild dogs! Eventually, the route ended up on quieter roads but for the remainder of the walk, I was on tarmac but with the added problem of passing many an unfriendly dog. However, I did try to convince myself they were all just saying ‘bom Caminho’!

Tomar

I arrived in Tomar, found the hostel and staggered in to be greeted by the most over-enthusiastic owner. I was trying to keep my head off the table as he explained in great detail the significance of Tomar in the modern world, I can’t remember much of what he said but I am so intrigued by the place that we are taking a day off to explore tomorrow if the blisters allow us to! Blisters yes of course the blisters are back! Looking forward to a rest day 🙂